The History of Our Cassoulet War

Since 2014, this epic D’Artagnan event has been held in New York City annually. What is cassoulet – and why have a war about it?

Cassoulet is a rustic dish from the Southwest France, consisting of white beans and a variety of preserved meats that are cooked together for hours to make a thick and hearty stew. You might be forgiven for thinking it’s essentially chili with a French accent – unless you are talking to a native of region. There, the cassoulet is an iconic dish that inspires competition between villages who all believe their version is the one true cassoulet.

In that spirit, D’Artagnan gathers 20 or more chefs to do battle in a friendly competition we call the Cassoulet War. Each brings their best cassoulet and doles out bowls of ambrosia, hoping to earn the top title, a place in cassoulet history, and eternal bragging rights.

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Timeline of Cassoulet War history part 2

Timeline of Cassoulet War history part 1

The History of Our Cassoulet War

1355 – Dinner Under Siege: The first cassoulet was created in Castelnaudary while the city was under siege. The available preserved meats were cooked together in a hearty stew to bolster the troops.

1553 – Do You Have Any Beans to Declare?: Catherine de’ Medici, the future wife of Henry II arrived in France with a bag of precious New World beans that she received as a wedding gift. Her interest in transplanting foods inspired a creative era in French cuisine.

15th–16th Centuries: The concept of a rich, slow-cooked bean stew with meats begins to take shape. Regional variations emerge, with different villages developing their unique twist on the dish, incorporating local meats and flavors.

17th–18th Centuries: Cassoulet gained recognition as a hearty and satisfying regional dish, and early cookbooks began to include recipes, further solidifying its place in regional cuisine.

19th Century: The name "cassoulet" begins to appear in culinary literature, and the dish gains popularity beyond the Southwest of France, attracting attention from food writers and gourmands.

1600 – Today - Gathering Cassoulet Drama: Over the years, cassoulet became the cause of much drama and debate as individual villages developed distinct versions of the dish. André Daguin, Michelin-starred chef, explained that "Cassoulet is not really a recipe, it’s a way to argue among neighboring villages of Gascony."

1950s - Abandoned Beans: The traditional white heirloom beans for cassoulet fell out of favor as industrial methods began to replace the labor-intensive practices that the Haricot Tarbais requires.

1970 – One Cassoulet to Rule Them All: La Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary – The Grand Brotherhood of the Cassoulet of Castelnaudary – was established to spread and defend the traditions and quality of cassoulet. Robed representatives joined us in NYC for the Cassoulet War, and in 2019 inducted our friend John Lithgow into the group.

1985 – A New Culinary Era Begins: D’Artagnan was founded in New Jersey by Ariane Daguin, a true daughter of Southwest France, to bring a taste of her region to America. Foie gras, duck confit, game birds, and charcuterie began to appear on restaurant menus.

1986 – Save the Beans: A group of traditionalists worked with the French department of agriculture to revitalize and cultivate heirloom Haricot Tarbais and protect them from vanishing from culinary history.

1997–2000 – A Hill of Beans: The holy grail of beans – the Haricot Tarbais – was recognized for its important place in culinary history when it received the prestigious Label Rouge and then Protected Geographical indication (PGI) in 2000.

2002 – Ariane’s Recipe: D’Artagnan offers the first authentic DIY cassoulet recipe kit with imported beans, and all manner of duck charcuterie. Those craving the comforting flavors of cassoulet could now enjoy them at home.

2014 – War Breaks Out: A tradition was born when D’Artagnan hosted the first Cassoulet War in NYC as a fun winter competition for chefs.

2015 – Once More, With Feeling: After the hot competition of 2014, the chefs clamored to have another meeting on the field of battle. This Cassoulet War was part of the D’Artagnan 35th anniversary celebrations, so there were plenty of French visitors in town.

2016 – Peace Breaks Out: Peace reigned in the realm for one year. Chefs retreated to their corners to study cassoulet recipes and strategize for the next bean battle.

2017 – Tongue Tied: Competition resumed with such vigor that the judges named 2 winners in each category. Even the guests voted for a tie for The People’s Choice.

2018 – Hot Competition: Cassoulet War tends to draw East Coast combatants, but 2018 saw chefs flying in from around the nation to show off their version.

2019 – En Garde!: By 2019 some chefs had become regular competitors, and they returned to joust once more.

2020 – The Last Dance: In February, D’Artagnan planned a week of events for our 35th anniversary. The 7th Cassoulet War was the final gathering - in more ways than one.

2021 – The Plague Year: During the pandemic we held a virtual Cassoulet War. Chefs shared tips and made cassoulet at home, then jumped on Zoom for a live debate and discussion with audience participation.

2022 – Cassoulet Calm: Peace once again returned to the realm this year. Chefs retreated to their kitchens to study cassoulet recipes, strategize, and gird their loins.

2023 – A Triumphant Return: Once more, we drew the battle lines and gathered live and in person for the Cassoulet War in March of 2023. We had a full house and a great time.

2024 – Back in the Groove: Things heated up in 2024 as we picked up the rhythm again. Cassoulet War was well-attended, and our friends Tom Colicchio and Danny Meyer joined the illustrious judge’s panel.

2025 – Will You Be There?: The Tenth Annual (give or take) Cassoulet War will be held in NYC and kick off the 40th anniversary year of D’Artagnan.