
Besides the requisite batch of “liquid gold,” rendering duck fat at home will yield a tasty bonus: fritons. Fritons, also called grattons, are duck cracklings. The freshly crisped morsels are a highly addictive snack, lightly salted, eaten out of a bowl and lovingly referred to as “Gascon popcorn.”
Fritons are also often made into a terrine or a potted spread, much like rillettes. For this simple preparation, a small amount of seasoning is added, such as garlic, and sometimes piment d’Espelette, along with some rendered fat, and then the mixture is ground before preserving. These fritons are eaten at room temperature with baguette or toast points.
Either preparation can be enjoyed any time of day but fritons are traditionally eaten as a snack during l’heure de l’apéro, whiling away the time before dinner with an aperitif, some little bites, and good conversation.
Now, back to the fat!
Rendering Duck (or Goose) Fat Step-by-Step
1. Carefully remove all of the skin and fat from the duck, cutting close to but avoiding the meat. Once removed, cut into chunks, approximately 1” x 1”.
2. Place the cut skin into a heavy-bottomed stockpot or large Dutch oven. Pour about ¾ cup of water over the skin. Simmer over medium-low heat, turning the bits of skin occasionally, until the water has evaporated and the skin has fully crisped and released its fat. This process should take about an hour. Note: As the fat renders and the water evaporates, the mixture may hiss or spatter. This is normal.
3. With a slotted spoon remove the cracklings and drain in a bowl lined with paper toweling. Sprinkle with sea salt while warm. Duck cracklings can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days, although they are best served fresh.
4. Allow the liquid fat to cool slightly, then strain into clean, sealable containers using a fine mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth. Store the duck fat covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 months or in the freezer for a year.
Rendering Fat from Duck Breast
If you are not roasting a whole duck or goose, you can still gather duck fat to enjoy in other recipes. When searing a duck magret - which has the thickest fat cap of any duck breast - there is usually a good 2 - 4 tablespoons of excess fat.
1. Using a sharp knife, make a criss-cross pattern of shallow cuts into the skin, being careful not to cut into the meat. This helps the fat render more evenly and allows the skin to crisp up. Pat the duck breasts thoroughly dry with a paper towel, especially the skin side.
2. Place the scored duck breasts, skin-side down, in a cold, heavy-bottomed, skillet or pan. Turn the heat to medium-low and let the fat render slowly.
3. As the fat melts, it will start to fill the pan. Periodically drain off the excess fat into a container. Depending on how thick the fat cap is, you may get 2-4 tablespoons of duck fat.
4. Continue cooking the duck breasts, skin-side down, until the skin is golden brown and crispy, and the fat is rendered. Once the skin is crispy, flip the breasts over and continue cooking to your desired level of doneness.